Step Into Columbia!

Stereotypical Columbia: coffee, cocaine, jungles and the possibility of guerillas lurking around the corner...
I just returned from an incredible six day group trek in the Columbian jungle where I, indeed, passed by coffee and cocaine fields before hiking to the ruins of Ciudad Perdida (literally the ‘Lost City’), set deep within a cloud forest. Ciudad Perdida is one of the largest pre-Columbian towns discovered in the Americas. Built between the 11th and 14th centuries by the Tayrona indigenous peoples, who were later exterminated by the Spaniards, this precious urban center was deserted and concealed by lush jungle vegetation. Only discovered again in 1975, the Lost City is now accessible to tourists via a six day hiking adventure.
At the entrance to the national reserve my hiking group was handed fliers with a description and picture of a wanted guerilla terrorist! Luckily, we only encountered a handful of travelers, and several indigenous families, along the trail.
Much of the trek is quite steep; taking a 100-meter ascent only to find that you must descend right away and then go right back up around the next corner. Six days of rigorous hiking certainly took a toll on my body and I was happy to retreat to mosquito netted hammocks each evening, which were hung in small shelters built alongside the path.
After several death-defying river crossings, clinging to a rope as my legs were battered by the strong currents, I was left feeling a bit weak and shaky. On one particularly difficult trail I tripped over some jagged stones, lost my balance and was sent soaring over a steep cliff with a 40-meter drop! Fortunately, some sturdy roots caught me square in the stomach, saving me from tumbling downhill. With my fresh new scrapes and multi-coloured bruises I continued scrambling over rocks and battling through rivers until I reached the legendary 1200 Steps. These intimidating, mossy, stone stairs rise from the river leading up to the enchanting Lost City.
Every one of those steps was worth it! Enclosed by a curtain of fog, we entered the mysterious Ciudad Perdida. Hand-carved stone terraces, which once served as foundations for the houses, loomed around every corner whispering the forgotten stories of an ancient tribe. The haze created a mystical atmosphere as we trudged along towards our camp for the evening.
By morning the fog had lifted and the enormity of the Tayrona metropolis was revealed. Leading the hike, our guide Ender, enlightened us with his extensive knowledge into the lives of this lost culture. Among these numerous facts we learned that the Tayronas had built their city at an altitude of 1300 meters in order to be closer to their Gods; the moon, the stars, the sun and, most importantly, poison dart frogs!
Back from my jungle trek, sipping a steaming cup of Columbian coffee, and waiting for my sore muscles and bug bites to heal, I contemplate the lost Tayrona society and the forgotten lives that once lived in harmony with this land. During my travels I have become conscious of the narrow-minded stereotypes placed upon this country and will never again associate Columbia with only coffee, cocaine and guerilla warfare. After this week long trek I am left to consider the abundance of lost stories that, if revealed, could facilitate the shattering of stereotypes and tell the vibrant tale of a land, now known as Columbia.

The Flavour of Venezuela

Down a crowed street, near the center of Merida, Venezuela I am indulging in one of my favourite pastimes: eating ice cream. However, what I am eating is far from any old, commonplace flavour - mushrooms with wine ice cream! Here in Heladeria Coromoto, a Guinness World Record ice-cream parlor, there are over 800 flavours! Among the wacky varieties you can try tuna, Guinness beer, chicken and pasta or even one titled Canada, although I’m not too sure what Canada is suppose to taste like…
Merida is an energetic town, seated in the valley of the surrounding Andes. As a major center for outdoor enthusiasts, Merida attracts tourists and Venezuelans from near and far to its friendly, tranquilo environment. My boyfriend and I are enjoying day-trips to the neighboring towns where old villages sprinkle the mountain side.

San Rafael de Mucuchies is my favourite because of its artistic history and peaceful atmosphere. There you will find a striking stone chapel built by Juan Felix Sanchez (1900-97), one of the most famous artists of Venezuela. Sanchez, an artist, philosopher, and architect, became famous for constructing sacred places where he utilized rocks to form his artwork.

After a sunny picnic lunch near the chapel, we discovered that our money had been misplaced. Without the funds to take the local bus we found ourselves sticking out our thumbs near the exit of town. I have hitchhiked frequently in developing countries, but it is always a nerve racking experience the first time in an unfamiliar place. Luckily, after fifteen minutes, we landed ourselves a ride. Every time a thoughtful driver extends their kindness I vow to help hitchhikers when and if I own a car in the future. It is a horrible feeling to be stranded, to be dependent on someone else’s charity. Nonetheless, throughout my travels I have always found people who, even when they have nothing to give, extend to me their compassion.
Our friendly driver, Omar, a cardiovascular surgeon, was born and raised in the surrounding mountain towns and had numerous stories to colour our two hour drive back to Merida. Meandering down the windy mountain road I caught snippets of village life. I saw farmers pushing their ox and yoke over green fields, naked children tottering after farmyard animals and women snapping damp laundry to dry in the sun. This lively, spirited way of life enveloped me while the amazing generosity of Omar warmed my soul.
Despite the fact that the big cities of Venezuela were impressive it will be the small, eclectic villages that I will remember most. If I were to imagine Venezuela as an ice cream flavour it would have to encompass the fresh mountain air with a hint of the green pastures, complete with a sun-drenched, velvety finish.